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Hiking Mount San Antonio (Mount Baldy) and Mount Harwood

by Modern Hiker on November 22, 2007

A leg-busting ascent to the highest point in Los Angeles County, with a neighboring mountain thrown in for good measure. This is a classic hike through some incredible subalpine scenery, and is a MUST HIKE for anyone who lives in or is visiting Southern California.

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The Basics:

- Distance: 10.33 miles
– Elevation Gain: 3950 feet

- Time: More than 6 hours.
- Trail Condition: Most of the trails are very clearly marked and easy to follow. There are a few places where you might get off the beaten path, but generally you can find your way back with ease. The Devil’s Backbone Trail has a few dangerous spots that deserve extra attention. Do not attempt this trail when there is ice or snow present. A single slip on the Backbone when it’s icy could spell serious trouble for you. Don’t risk it.
- How to Get There: Take I-210 to Upland, California and exit at Mountain Avenue. Continue north on Mountain until it turns into Mount Baldy Road. Continue through Mt. Baldy Village and past Icehouse Canyon to the Manker Flats Campground. The trailhead begins just north of the campground at San Antonio Falls Road. Look for a port-o-potty off the main road. If you want to take the Ski Lift up, continue past the campground to the end of Mt. Baldy Road. The road ends at the ski lift. Display your Adventure Pass.

- Map It

The Notables:

- The highest peak in Los Angeles County.
– Adventurous hiking along the Devil’s Backbone Trail.
– Incredible 360-degree views of Southern California.
- An ascent your legs will be feeling for days afterward.

More Pictures:

- Here. Also, some pictures from a summer trip here.

Mounts San Antonio and Harwood at EveryTrail



Map created by EveryTrail:Share GPS tracks

 

The Mount San Antonio (or, Mount Baldy, if you’re feeling colloquial) trail is hands-down one of the best in Southern California. It’s the highest peak in the Angeles National Forest at 10,064 feet, and its tree-free summit provides incredible panoramic views of almost every single kind of SoCal terrain — from desert to city to mountains to ocean. There are two popular routes to the top – and they’ll both make you work for it. But once you get there and collapse high above the rest of civilization, it’s absolutely worth it.

As this was the first trail I’d been on since the wildfires closed down the National Forests in October, I wanted to make it a big one. And I didn’t want my legs to think they’d have it easy for much longer.

I did this trail last summer, and was concerned it may be a bit chilly around this time of year, but when I arrived at Manker Flats, I had to take off my fleece and toss it in my backpack instead — these bigger mountains can make their own weather sometimes, so you should always be prepared to hike through a few different temperature zones.

The fire road leaving Manker Flats had very recently been repaved — so the first three-quarters of a mile were on fresh asphalt. Your feet may not be happy, but the views of the Baldy Bowl and the distant summit are more than enough to take your mind off the urban footing.

At that .7 mile mark, there’s a small spur trail that leads to the bottom of San Antonio Falls. If you can get there on the first few warm days of spring, you can get absolutely drenched by the 80 foot waterfall. Assuming, of course, we’ve had some snowfall that winter. Even with our record-breaking bone dry winter of last year, though, the falls still had a bit of water left in ‘em.

The fire road becomes unpaved at this point and continues on a long and winding path up to Baldy Notch. It’s a pleasant, easy walk with plenty of views of the San Antonio valley, but compared to what comes later on in the trail, it’s a bit boring.

In fact, if you choose to do so, you can skip parking at Manker Flats and instead pay a few bucks to park at the Mount Baldy Ski Lift, which will cart you up to Baldy Notch in just a few minutes and cut about 1300 feet of elevation gain and just under 3 miles off your legs. But it’s cheating. There, I said it.

When you get to Baldy Notch, you can stop in the ski shack and grab a snack, take a break, and warm up if it’s chilly. When you’re ready to keep moving, head north toward another ski lift.

Here, the trail gets a little tricky to follow. The "proper" route follows an unclear fire road to the left of the ski lift towers, which will take a few short switchbacks to climb to a ridge overlooking the Antelope Valley. I forgot this, and instead followed a snow fence that ascended right up a ski slope. If you think it’s fun going down a ski slope, I can assure you it most definitely is not fun to hike up one. But it’s a short and direct route, with some pretty impressive views of the San Bernardino Mountains to the east.

Generally if you head in a north-northwesterly direction, you’ll find the Backbone trail with no problems. It’s only right near the lodge that the trails and roads are unclear. Soon, you’ll reach a ridge that has a noticeably steep drop-off to the north. You’ll be looking across a deep, flat wash valley to the gray beast of Dawson Peak.

And directly to your west is the start of the Devil’s Backbone — one of the most exciting (and potentially dangerous) trails in the San Gabriels.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4868077376555313567

The first section of the Backbone literally straddles an east-west ridge between two steep valleys. It’s wide-enough at the start, but if you catch yourself looking down at the wrong time, it’s pretty easy to get a touch of the vertigo. This is a section of trail to treat with respect and take seriously. There’s a stretch after the first section that hugs a fairly steep cliffside where the trail thins considerably. I’d forgotten how frightening it was. When you’re hiking, just take your time and stay calm. Soon, you’ll be back on wider, relatively safer terrain.

When the trail straightens out and heads directly toward the Baldy Bowl, you’ll see a steep, bare peak directly to your north. This is Mount Harwood. I took a cross-country talus scramble up to the top, just because it’s on the Hundred Peaks List and I hadn’t bagged it yet. It’ll give you a decent view of the approach of San Antonio, and is much less-visited than it’s bigger neighbor, but it’s still worth a visit. Just mind your footing on the loose slope. This picture is from the summit, looking down at a fellow hiker who I’d just passed. It gives a nice scale to the scope of the surrounding landscape.

From there, it’s a short, steep, slippery scramble back down to the Backbone Trail. Then it’s down into a windy saddle and a long, slow crawl up to the Baldy Summit.

No matter which way you try to bag Baldy, it always seems like the last mile or so is the toughest part. You’re slogging up a barren, windswept landscape along trails that either relentlessly switchback, or shoot no-nonsense directly to the summit. From this route, the last mile has just over 500 feet of elevation gain — but because you’re up so high, and you’ve already climbed so much, it feels like twice that amount.

But for all the work you put into this hike, when you finally reach the summit, the sense of accomplishment is unreal. There are small makeshift wind shelters left behind by previous hikers, and all you’ll want to do is lean up against one of them, take a deep breath, and soak in the unparalleled 360-degree views of the wilderness around you.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3996965014980605140

When you’re done taking in the views and / or recuperating from the climb, you can either head back to the Devil’s Backbone the way you came (and probably take the ski-lift down — no shame in descending), or you can take in some more of what Baldy has to offer by heading south from the summit onto the Baldy Bowl Trail. If you feel like you’re heading west along the ridge for too long, you’re probably on the Baldy Trail — a much longer route that will take you to Mount Baldy Village — far away from where you probably parked.

The correct route is a single-track that takes you just outside the western edge of the Baldy Bowl, as the landscape goes from windswept-lunar to slightly-less-windswept, populated with some interesting, twisted pines.

It’s worth it to go off trail once or twice for a dizzying view off the cliff of the Baldy Bowl. Otherwise, the trail will eventually switchback its way past an incredible torn tree, and deposit you directly in the center of the Baldy Bowl, among the hundreds of boulders that have slid down over the years.

It’s another great place just to stand and marvel at the sheer size of the land — and know that you were just walking along that ridge 2000 feet above where you’re feet are now.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=1717597558976260771

From there, the trail follows the contour of the Bowl past the Sierra Club San Antonio Ski Hut (where you can stay overnight for a small fee, if you’re interested), and gradually makes its way back down to the Mount Baldy Fire Road, just east of San Antonio Falls.

And from there, it’s just a short walk back to Manker Flats, where you’ll most likely give yourself a pat on the back, take off your shoes, and head for the nearest source of cooked food you can find. (I dig the Mount Baldy Lodge on the way out).

And congratulations. You just hiked the highest mountain in Los Angeles County.

 

Upland Hotels

{ 177 comments… read them below or add one }

Hiker Bob November 16, 2011 at 10:51 am

Anyone want to join me for a conditioning hike from Manker Flats to the Baldy Ski Hut? I plan to be at the trailgate on Baldy Rd. around 9 AM Friday (11/18/11). Dress accordingly, the temps will be in the 50-60º range. No rain is predicted but it can get windy. I’m driving a black X-terra with a divers flag on the rear window.

Click on my name for my Mt Baldy Hike website.

Marybeth December 19, 2011 at 10:14 am

High Wind Advisory: Due to Mt Baldys location in the San Gabriel Mtn range, it experiences more volitle winds than some of the surrounding areas. You can check on the weather conditions at http://www.mtbaldyskilifts.com before heading on up. There is plenty of slick ice, and mixing that with the winds… a dangerous thing. Just a heads up fellow hikers. Have a great Christmas! TTFN

love426outdoor January 7, 2012 at 11:26 pm

Just hiked to the summit of Baldy this weekend (Jan 7, 2012)! Great hike that doesn’t seem to get any easier the second time around … Started the trail from the ski lift parking lot which had some immediate steep inclines that then met with the main trail to the lodge. Chugged on up the ski trails, across devil’s backbone and to the summit. Scattered snow and ice on the trail but nothing that a good pair of boots can’t handle. The hardest part was hiking down with the chilling winds, come prepared! Ran into a group of young guys, unprepared in shirts and shorts, struggling to get down … But if you come prepared, you’ll be rewarded with a great challenging hike up Mt Baldy, courtesy of the dry and warm January weather so far!

Alen January 8, 2012 at 11:23 pm

Does anyone know when it will be safest to start this hike? I have never done this hike before and after reading about Michelle Yu, I will not take any chances. Is there always slick ice up there, even in the spring or summer? My hope is that there is a time of year when slick ice will not be present. (I would like to do this hike as soon as it is safe, but I can wait for the hottest day in summer if I have too).

For those who respond, when is the earliest month you hiked this trail before?

Marybeth January 9, 2012 at 2:21 pm

Probably taking the Sierra Club’s Ski Hut trail would be the safest for wintertime, but no guarantees during this season on how it will be. The shady areas can still hold some mighty thick slabs of ice for a long time after its been warm weather. Personally, I avoid the mtn during winter & its hard, I know cuz I love being on that summit. There are alternate trails in the meantime…Stroddard Saddle, Sunset Peak, Potato Mtn….

Marybeth January 10, 2012 at 11:48 am

Alen, personaly I think the trails to Baldy are far more beautiful mid-spring, when the foliage & wildflowers are blooming and after the Boy Scouts & Sierra Club have maintained the trails somewhat after the winter damages. Have you contacted the Baldy ranger station for one of their area trail maps, maybe they can email you a pdf. 909-982-2829 and I’m sure they have current updates on trail conditions. Also, if you’re conditioning for your upcoming summit, here are a few area trails: Sunset Peak has an El gain of 1300′ Moderate difficulty, Stoddard 1000′ Mod, Etiwanda Falls 950′ Mod, Potato Mtn 1100′ Mod, Baldy Notch 1642′ whereas Baldy summit is 3904′ Strenuous. When we were looking for Michelle two Decembers ago, it was the first week of Dec when we were having really hot days, but very cold nights. Similar to what we’re experiencing now. The ice slabs we encountered along Ski Hut trail (other crews took the loop route via Icehouse so I don’t know what those trails were like) were in the shady areas, slick as all get-out but in areas where they could be avoided with careful off-trail footing. But beyond the Hut, the summit is unpredictable. Maybe try just going to the Ski Hut (but know that this weekend will be very windy) EL gain 1810′ Mod difficulty & it will give you a feel for the route. The difficulty really increases after the Hut, particularly the last leg of the trail. Happy trails!

Hiker_Bob January 13, 2012 at 11:49 am

@Alen: Depending on the snow cover and current weather conditions, mid May to mid June are great times to do this hike. There will still be patches of snow on the trail and the summit but usually not enough to cause problems but enough to make the hike interesting. You just have to be prepared for cool temps.

Modern Hiker May 16, 2011 at 1:13 pm

Great route – just know that none of the backcountry camps near Baldy allow fires. You’ll have to descend down to Manker Flats for that creature comfort :)

Marybeth January 13, 2012 at 12:52 pm

Fellow Hikers: I’ll be traveling to Durango Colorado and I want to hike along the way. Any suggestions for areas/places to stop for a soectacular day hike? Then I would resume my travels the following day, hike again, etc

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